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Bae, Yoon-Soo Cindy et al.: 2023 Procedural Dermatology: Postresidency and Fellowship Compendium, Volume 2 DOI: 10.1055/b-0043-196759

21 Cosmeceuticals

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Editors: Bae, Yoon-Soo Cindy; Ciocon, David H.

Authors: Bae, Gee Young; Bernstein, Leonard J.; Boker, Andreas; Borash, Jordan; Bosley, Rawn; Brauer, Jeremy A.; Brown, Wilfred; Callaghan, Daniel; Chesnut, Cameron; Christman, Mitalee P.; Criscito, Maressa C.; Ebersole, Trina G.; Emer, Jason; Fabi, Sabrina Guillen; Fazzalari, Amanda; Friedman, Adam; Friedmann, Daniel P.; Geronemus, Roy G.; Goldberg, David J.; Gordon, Samantha; Graber, Emmy M.; Hazan, Ezra; Kent, Rhett A.; Khorasani, Hooman; Lederhandler, Margo H.; Lee, Austin; Li, Monica K.; Lin, Richard L.; Lipp, Michael B.; MacGregor, Jennifer L.; Mann, Margaret; Mehrabi, Joseph N.; Mishra, Vineet; Moak, Teri N.; Morton, Laurel M.; Murgia, Robert D.; Murphy, Emily C.; Paul, Benjamin Curman; Robinson, Deanne Mraz; Rokhsar, Cameron; Saedi, Nazanin; Scott, Jeffrey F.; Shridharani, Sachin M.; Soon, Seaver L.; Steele, Robert Blake; Steuer, Alexa B.; Tamashunas, Nina Lucia; Tan, Andrea; Tisch, Grace M.; Wang, Jordan V.; Weiss, Robert; Yeh, Lindsey; Zumwalt, Michael

Title: Procedural Dermatology: Postresidency and Fellowship Compendium, Volume 2

Print ISBN: 9783132424074; Online ISBN: 9783132437142; Book DOI: 10.1055/b000000254

1. Edition © 2023. Thieme. All rights reserved.
Georg Thieme Verlag KG, Stuttgart,

Subjects: Dermatology;Allergology

Thieme Clinical Collections (English Language)



 
Emily C. Murphy and Adam Friedman

Summary

This chapter discusses the mechanism, stability, topical penetration, and supporting clinical evidence of common cosmeceutical ingredients. The stability and penetration data for these ingredients were gathered under controlled laboratory conditions. Given these products will be exposed to oxygen during application and may be stored in nonideal conditions, the shelf lives are likely lower than advertised. Use of niacin, the peptide palmitoyl-lysine-threonine-threonine-lysine-serine (Pal-KTTKS), and some growth factors in clinical trials produced only small improvements in wrinkles, so their costs may outweigh the benefits. Oral collagen may improve wrinkles based on preliminary evidence, but over-the-counter products are diverse and may not have adequate quantity of active collagen peptides. Two retinoid derivatives, retinaldehyde and retinol, demonstrated more substantial antiwrinkle effects, but their efficacy may still be lower than prescription retinoids. On the contrary, retinoid esters were not effective in reducing wrinkles but can concentrate in the epidermis, offering protection from ultraviolet (UV) induced deoxyribonucleic acid (DNA) damage. Other agents that were efficacious in reducing photodamage include DNA repair enzymes and the antioxidants, vitamin C, vitamin E, and ferulic acid, in combination. These agents that protect the skin from DNA damage may be useful additions to moisturizers and sunscreens to reduce the risk of photoaging. Azelaic acid and hydroquinone both reduce hyperpigmentation in randomized, controlled trials and are recommended as first-line therapies. However, hydroquinone may be more beneficial in prescription formulations than over-the-counter products. Overall, some cosmeceuticals have evidence substantiating their claims, but many other product claims are unfounded. Patients may benefit from consulting their dermatologists for guidance on how to best treat their cosmetic needs rather than spending time and money determining which cosmeceuticals are effective.

Key words

cosmeceutical - topical penetration - retinoids - hydroquinone - kojic acid - tranexamic acid - DNA repair enzymes - oral collagen - azelaic acid - curcumin
 
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