Phytochemistry and cosmetic potential of plants traditionally used for skincare and beauty in South Africa

The prolonged exposure of the skin to sun radiation can have undesired consequences, resulting in skin damage and darkening [1]. Plant extracts that can offer protection to the skin are important in skin rehabilitation. Therefore, the aim of the study was to test plant extracts for their phytochemical and cosmetic potential. Extracts of 16 plants from the Eastern Cape Province, South Africa traditionally used for skincare and beauty were evaluated for their total phenolic content, flavonoid content, anti-tyrosinase activity and sun protection factor (SPF). Methanolic extracts from Ruta graveolens L, Aloe ferox Mill, Ilex mitis (L.) Radlk, Cassipourea flanaganii (Schinz) Alston and Rorippa nasturtium (L.) Hayek had high total phenolic content of 29.98 (0.40), 37.88 (0.19), 44.15 (0.14), 49.45 (0.21) and 53.86 (0.18)mg GAE/g, respectively. The flavonoid content was the highest for Plantago lanceolata L at 5.06 (0.14)mg CE/g. The percentage inhibition of the tyrosinase enzyme ranged between 29 – 74% for all tested plant extracts. Importantly, cosmetic products are categorised according to their SPF values, with minimal protection being (SPF < 12), moderate protection (SPF 12 – 30) and high protection (SPF > 30). Plant extracts from P. lanceolata, C. flanaganii, Acokanthera oblongifolia (Hochst), I. mitis, Arctotis arctotoides (L.F) O. Hoffm and A. ferox exhibited moderate protection against ultraviolet (UV) radiation with SPF values 22.19 (2.177), 20.80 (0.696), 20.293 (0.417), 19.67 (2.144), 17.61 (0.329) and 13.56 (0.967), respectively. A number of the tested plant extracts showed good potential for use in cosmetic formulation and their combined use can enhance their activity.

[1]. Lorencini M, Brohem C.A, Dieamant G.C, Zanchin N.I.T, Maibach H.I. Ageing Res Rev 2014; 15:100 – 115.