Natural ingredients of skin lightening cosmetics

Hyperpigmentation is a common aesthetic problem caused by increased melanogenesis and uneven distribution of melanin pigment in the skin. It is estimated that over 90% of the European population struggle with this disorder at some point of their lives [1] and approximately 15% of the world population invest in skin lightening cosmetics [2]. The primary target of skin lightening agents is tyrosinase (EC 1.14.14.1), a metaloenzyme catalyzing rate-limiting first two steps of melanogenesis - the convertion of L-tyrosine to L-DOPA and subsequently to dopaquinone [3], [4]. Kojic acid, arbutin and glabridin are examples of tyrosinase inhibitors isolated from natural sources that are commonly used in skin whitening cosmetics. However, due to their poor efficacy in vivo, low formulation stability and possible adverse effects novel cosmetic ingredients preventing and reducing hyperpigmentation are needed [5].

An interesting source of effective and safe skin-whitening agents are plants extract. The efficacy of plant-derived ingredients as skin lightening agents might be analysed and compared using various recently established in vitro methods that are more accurate and reliable than the commonly used mushroom tyrosinase activity assay. Advantages and disadvantages of these methods will be discussed. Examples of novel skin-whitening extracts and compounds found during the original research and described in recent publications will be presented and compared with currently used cosmetic ingredients. The advantages of the application of plant extracts rather than purified compounds in skin whitening cosmetics will also be discussed.

• References

• 1 Pańczyk K, Waszkielewicz A, Marona H. Zaburzenia hiperpigmentacyjne skóry oraz farmakologiczne metody ich leczenia. Farm Pol 2014; 70 (06) : 327-35
• 2 Pillaiyar T, Manickam M, Namasivayam V. Skin whitening agents: medicinal chemistry perspective of tyrosinase inhibitors. J Enzyme Inhib Med Chem 2017; 32 (01) : 403-425
• 3 Lin JY, Fisher DE. Melanocyte biology and skin pigmentation. Nature 2007; 445 (7130): 843-50
• 4 Videira IF, Moura DF, Magina S. Mechanisms regulating melanogenesis. An Bras Dermatol 2013; 88 (01) : 76-83
• 5 Sarkar R, Arora P, Garg KV. Cosmeceuticals for Hyperpigmentation: What is Available? J Cutan Aesthet Surg 2013; 6 (01) 4-11.