Phytotherapie in der Kosmetik[1] – Eine Annäherung

Summary

Herbal medicinal products as cosmetics

The plant kingdom is an almost endless source for new active substances. Producer, developer and safety assessor have to find arrangements well adapted for plant material. Only with this measures it is possible to separate the wheat from the chaff.

Key words

Cosmetics - plant extracts - safety assessment

n01 ¹Herrn Prof. Dr. Max Wichtl zum 85. Geburtstag gewidmet.

n01 ¹Herrn Prof. Dr. Max Wichtl zum 85. Geburtstag gewidmet.

Literatur

• r1 Bos JD. Meinardi M. The 500 Dalton rule for the skin penetration of chemical compounds and drugs.  Exp Dermatol. 2000;  9 165-169
• r2 Burhenne V. Gieske S. Make up! Aus der Geschichte der dekorativen Kosmetik.  Landschaftsverband Westfalen-Lippe. 1998; 
• r3 Carson CF. Hammer KA. Riley TV. Melaleuca alternifolia (tea tree) oil: a review of antimicrobial and other medicinal properties.  Clin Microbiol Rev. 2006;  19 50-62
• r4 Chuarienthong P. Lourith N. Leelapornpisid P. Clinical efficacy comparison of anti-wrinkle cosmetics containing herbal flavonoids.  Int J Cosmet Sci. 2010;  32 99-106
• r5 Deters A. Dauer A. Schnetz E. Fartasch M. Hensel A. High molecular compounds (polysaccharides and proanthocyanidins) from Hamamelis virginiana bark: influence on human skin keratinocyte proliferation and differentiation and influence on irritated skin.  Phytochemistry. 2001;  58 949-958
• r6 Feily A. Namazi MR. Aloe vera in dermatology: a brief review.  G Ital Dermatol Venereol. 2009;  144 85-91
• r7 Füllgraff GM. Ein Plädoyer für klare Begriffe.  Münch Med Wschr. 1984;  126 927-928
• r8 [anonymous]. Guidance document on the demarcation between the cosmetic products directive 76/768 and the medicinal products directive 2001/83 as agreed between the commission services and the competent authorities of member states. 2005 http://ec.europa.eu/consumers/sectors/cosmetics/files/doc/guidance_doc_cosm-medicinal_en.pdf
• r9 Gulliver WP. Donsky HJ. A report on three recent clinical trials using Mahonia aquifolium 10% topical cream and a review of the worldwide clinical experience with Mahonia aquifolium for the treatment of plaque psoriasis.  Am J Ther. 2005;  12 398-406
• r10 Haftek M. Mac-Mary S. Le Bitoux MA. , et al. Clinical, biometric and structural evaluation of the long-term effects of a topical treatment with ascorbic acid and madecassoside in photoaged human skin.  Exp Dermatol. 2008;  17 946-952
• r11 Isaac O. Die Ringelblume – eine alte Arzneipflanze neu betrachtet.  Z Phytother. 2000;  21 138-142
• r12 Lebensmittel-, Bedarfsgegenstände- und Futtermittelgesetzbuch (Lebensmittel- und Futtermittelgesetzbuch – LFGB). 2009 § 2 Abs. 5
• r13 [anonymous]. Manual on the scope of application of the cosmetics diretive 76/768 (Art. 1(1) cosmetics directive) as agreed between the commission services and the competent authorities of menber states. 2006 http://ec.europa.eu/consumers/sectors/cosmetics/files/doc/manual_borderlines_version50_en.pdf
• r14 McKay DL. Blumberg JB. A review of the bioactivity and potential health benefits of chamomile tea (Matricaria recutita L.).  Phytother Res. 2006;  20 519-530
• r15 Neubert R. Wohlrab W. Marsch W. Dermatopharmazie. Stuttgart; Wissenschafliche Verlagsgesellschaft 2001
• r16 Pajonk F. Riedisser A. Henke M. , et al. The effects of tea extracts on proinflammatory signaling.  BMC Med. 2006;  4 -28
• r17 Reuter J. Merfort I. Schempp CM. Botanicals in dermatology: an evidence-based review.  Am J Clin Dermatol. 2010;  11 247-267
• r18 Verordnung (EG). Nr. 1223/2009; 2009
• r19 Verordnung über kosmetische Mittel (Kosmetik-Verordnung). 1977/2010

Online

http://dx.doi.org/10.1055/s-0030-1262404