Cosmetics are moving towards pharma and cosmeceuticals are entering the market. Modern
biotechnology offers many advantages to develop new type of ingredients for industrial
applications in a sustainable way. Due to the arctic growth conditions Nordic wild
berries are rich sources of natural biomolecules with multifunctional effects to the
skin. We have shown that phenolic compounds in berries very efficiently inhibit the
growth of many human pathogens including skin pathogens, such as Staphylococcus aureus, S. epidermis and Pseudomonas aeruginosa without effecting the growth of beneficial bacteria. Several mechanisms of action,
including the weakening of the outer membrane of Gram- negative bacteria, are involved
in the growth inhibition. More interestingly, various berry phenolics are shown to
specifically block cell-to-cell signalling (quorum sensing) in a bacterial community.
Thus these phytochemicals can act in cosmetic preparations in dual way, as natural
preservatives to prevent spoilage of the product, and as stabilizers of healthy skin
microbiota by inhibiting the growth of harmful skin microbes and by supporting the
growth of beneficial microbes.
Bioprocessing including enzyme treatment and fermentation combined with special dry
fractionation technologies of the berry material has resulted in increased bioactivities.
Using plant cell and tissue culture technology whole biosynthetic capacity of the
plant can be advantaged and even totally new beneficial compounds for the skin can
be produced. The unusual phenolic profile of the cultured berry cells, as well as
their fatty acid composition with a high proportion of α-linolenic acid and high protein
content makes them a unique and interesting alternative for cosmetic industry. Efficient
utilization of the biomolecules requires controlled delivery systems into the skin,
such as microcurrent patches developed at VTT, which are based on renewable enzyme
catalysts and renewable materials. The possibilities using natural plant cell-derived
ingredients combined with new delivery system will also be discussed.
