The interest of eco-friendly water subcritical grape pomace extract as skin regeneration active ingredient

LVMH research is committed to reduce our environmental impact. As such, we focus the development of our actives with eco-friendly extraction technologies and co-product uses [1]. This study shows the interest of grape pomace water-subcritical extraction to obtain active ingredient [2]. Different temperatures of extraction were tested; 125 °C which allows interesting extraction yield and polyphenols content with acceptable organoleptic properties was selected for biological screening and phytochemical characterization.

The total polyphenols content of the extract, obtained by Folin Ciocalteu method, is 50 mg_GAE/g. The presence of caftaric acid, epicatechin, catechin, pro-anthocyanidins, epicatechin and catechin derivatives was demonstrated by LC-DAD-HRMS analysis.

The extract increases collagen from dermo-epidermal junction synthesis (+23 % collagen VII and +87 % collagen IV) by human keratinocytes. Moreover, this effects on reconstructed skin model are studied. Significative increase of fibronectin, involucrin, integrin α6 is measured, 54 %, 33 % and 41 % respectively. After treatment with extract, the epidermal is also 29 % thicker.

This study shows the interest of eco-friendly water subcritical grape pomace extract as skin regeneration active ingredient.

• References

• 1 Chemat F, Vian MA, Cravotto G. Green Extraction of Natural Products: Concept and Principles. Int J Mol Sci 2012; 13: 8615-8627
• 2 Aliakbarian B, Fathi A, Perego P, Dehghani F. Extraction of antioxidants from winery wastes using subcritical water. J Supercrit Fluids 2012; 65: 18-24