Abstract
This study investigates the effect of simulated sport climbing finger grips on the resultant four fingertip force and the rate of fatigue of finger flexor muscles. Six elite sport climbers sat on a chair with the right forearm placed in a handgrip dynamometer modified so that only the fingertips applied direct force. They were asked to perform three maximal voluntary contractions (MVC). After ten minutes, they had to reach 80 % of the peak MVC intermittently with a 5 s contraction followed by 5 s of rest for 20 repetitions. Two common sport climbing finger grips were tested: the “slope” grip and the “crimp” grip. In the “crimp” grip, the distal interphalangeal joint (DIP) is hyper-extended and the proximal interphalangeal joint (PIP) is flexed from 90° to 100°. In the “slope” grip, DIP is flexed from 50° to 70° and PIP is flexed just slightly. The surface EMG of the hand extrinsic flexors and the maximal resultant four fingertip force were recorded. Results show that the maximal resultant four-fingertip force does not depend on the type of finger grips (on average 420 N, p > 0.05). EMG median frequency of finger flexor muscles and resultant four fingertip force rate decrease are similar between both sport climbing finger grips (p > 0.05). This shows that the fatigue rate is not dependent upon the sport climbing finger grips. In conclusion, the results suggest that the use of the “crimp” or the “slope” grip does not provide any benefit with respect to muscular fatigue in sport climbing.
Key words
Sport climbing - finger - biomechanics - electromyography
References
-
1 Basmajian J V, De Luca (ed) C J. Muscles Alive. Baltimore; Williams & Wilkins 1985: 94
-
2
Bigland-Ritchie B, Furbush F, Woods J J.
Fatigue of intermittent submaximal voluntary contractions: central and peripheral factors.
J Appl Physiol.
1986;
61
421-429
-
3
Blackwell J R, Kornatz K W, Heath M E.
Effect of grip span on maximal grip force and fatigue of flexor digitorum superficialis.
Appl Ergon.
1999;
30
401-405
-
4
Dennerlein J T, Diao E, Mote C D, Rempel D M.
Tensions of the flexor digitorum superficialis are higher than a current model predicts.
J Biomech.
1998;
31
295-301
-
5
Ferguson R A, Brown M D.
Arterial blood pressure and forearm vascular conductance responses to sustained and rhythmic isometric exercise and arterial occlusion in trained rock climbers and untrained sedentary subjects.
Eur J Appl Physiol.
1997;
76
174-180
-
6
Grant S, Hynes V, Whittaker A, Aitchison T.
Anthropometric strength, endurance, and flexibility characteristics of elite and recreational climbers.
J Sports Sci.
1996;
14
301-309
-
7
Hägg G M, Milerad E.
Forearm extensor and flexor muscle exertion during simulated gripping work - an electromyographic study.
Clin Biomech.
1997;
12
39-43
-
8
Mermier M M, Robergs R A, McMinn S M, Heyward V H.
Energy expenditure and physiological responses during indoor rock climbing.
Br J Sports Med.
1997;
31
224-228
-
9
Mogk J P, Keir P J.
Crosstalk in surface electromyography of the proximal forearm during gripping task.
J Electromyogr Kinesiol.
2003;
13
63-71
-
10
Noé F, Quaine F, Martin L.
Influence of steep gradient supporting walls in rock-climbing: biomechanical analyses.
Gait Posture.
2001;
13
86-94
-
11
Petrofsky J S.
Quantification through the surface EMG of muscle fatigue and recovery during successive isometric contractions.
Aviat Space Environ Med.
1981;
52
545-550
-
12
Pitcher J B, Miles T S.
Influence of muscle blood flow on fatigue during intermittent human hand-grip exercise and recovery.
Clin Exp Pharmacol Physiol.
1997;
24
471-476
-
13
Quaine F, Martin L, Blanchi J P.
The effect of body position and number of supports on wall reaction forces in rock climbing.
J Appl Biomech.
1997;
13
14-23
-
14
Quaine F, Vigouroux L, Martin L.
Finger flexors fatigue in trained rock-climbers and untrained sedentary subjects.
Int J Sport Med.
2003;
24
424-427
-
15
Rooks M D.
Rock climbing injuries.
Sports Med.
1997;
20
261-270
-
16
Schweizer A.
Biomechanical properties of the crimp grip position in rock climbers.
J Biomech.
2001;
34
217-223
-
17
Stephens J A, Taylor A.
Fatigue of maintained voluntary muscle contraction in man.
J Physiol.
1997;
220
1-18
-
18
Watts P B, Dagget M, Gallagher P, Wilkins B.
Metabolic response during sport rock climbing and the effects of active versus passive recovery.
Int J Sports Med.
2000;
21
185-190
Franck Quaine
UFR APS, Université Joseph Fourier
1741 rue de la Piscine
BP 53x, 38041, Grenoble Cedex 9
France
Phone: + 330476514593
Fax: + 33 04 76 51 44 69
Email: franck.quaine@ujf-grenoble.fr
