Abstract
Thirteen healthy European mountaineers (11 male, 2 female)
participated in the 62-day German-Pakistani Research Expedition to Broad Peak
(8047 m) in the Karakorum, Pakistan. During ascent, base camp stay and
approach to the summit, oxygen saturation was measured by pulse oximetry at
rest, during exercise and during sleep; in addition, questionnaires on high
altitude symptomatic had to be answered. We found a dramatic decrease in oxygen
saturation especially at extreme altitudes (7100 m: Median
63 %, Min 59 %, Max 65 %) and a long
time required for real acclimatization. The lowest figures at 4850 m were found
during maximal exercise, 77.5 %
(69 - 85 %) and during sleep, 81 %
(73 - 88 %), the highest ones at rest,
86.5 % (77 - 89 %). There was a
significant correlation (Spearman rank correlation coefficient with ties)
between measured oxygen saturation during the ascent to/stay at base camp and
high altitude illness
(p = 0.005 - 0.05), as well as with
high altitude performance
(p = 0.025 - 0.01). The limiting
values of “no high altitude symptomatic”, “high altitude
discomfort”, AMS and the malignant forms could be estimated for
acclimatized
(>90 %/>80 %/>70 %/<70 %)
and unacclimatized
(>80 %/>70 %/>65 %/<65 %)
condition. Pulse oximetry is an objective non-invasive method of measurement
that is easy to handle. It is a suitable device besides clinical examination
and questionnaire-test in the diagnosis of high altitude illness even in the
hands of non-professionals. The measurement at sleep can possibly explain
present high altitude symptomatic despite of (nearly) normal oxygen saturation
values at rest.
Key words
Hypoxia - high altitude - mountain sickness - pulse oximetry
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Dr. M. Tannheimer
Chirurgische Abteilung des Bundeswehrkrankenhauses Ulm
Oberer Eselsberg 40 · 89081 Ulm · Germany
·
Phone: +49 (731) 1710 1201
Fax: +49 (731) 553100
Email: markus.tannheimer@arcormail.de