Abstract
The anaerobic strength endurance of the forearm flexor muscles represents the main
limiting factor in modern sports climbing. Only isometric testing has been performed
so far in order to evaluate this factor. Since climbing involves intermittent isometric
contraction as well as dynamic movements, a pure isometric testing is too unspecific.
The present paper demonstrates a specific performance diagnosis using a rotating climbing
wall as a climbing ergometer. Twenty-eight male climbers performed a step test. According
to their climbing level they were divided into three groups with different inclinations
of the wall. Maximum blood lactate was 5.0 ± 1.3 mmol/l (mean ± sd), climbing length
39.1 ± 15.7 m, and heart rate 185 ± 10.7 bpm. The mean number of steps performed was
5.8 ± 2.5 and the mean slope of the blood lactate graph (regression equitation) was
0.57 ± 0.4. The specific climbing recovering ability is documented with the so called
heart rate difference and additionally the positive effects of a non specific, aerobic,
basic endurance training are demonstrated. A mathematical analysis of the most important
performance limiting test results enabled us to determine a strength-endurance factor
that can be applied for cross- and longitudinal-section comparisons.
Key words
Performance diagnosis - rock climbing - blood lactate - strength endurance - climbing
ergometry
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Dr. V. Schöffl
Department of Trauma and Orthopedic Surgery · Klinikum Bamberg
Bugerstraße 80
96049 Bamberg
Germany
Phone: + 49(0)9512081229
Email: volker.schoeffl@t-online.de
