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Aktuelle Dermatologie 2003; 29(1/2): 27-32
DOI: 10.1055/s-2003-38229
Ästhetische Dermatologie
© Georg Thieme Verlag Stuttgart · New York

Kosmetik und Hautpflege aus dermatologischer Sicht - neue Trends

Cosmetics and Skin Care from the Dermatological Point of View - New TendsMartina  Kerscher1 , T.  Reuther1
  • 1Studiengang Kosmetik und Körperpflege, Fachbereich Chemie, Universität Hamburg
Herrn Prof. Dr. med. Dr. h. c. mult. O. Braun-Falco gewidmet
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Publication History

Publication Date:
27 March 2003 (online)

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Zusammenfassung

In den letzten Jahren kam es zu einer großen Zahl von Neuentwicklungen im Bereich von dermatokosmetischen Formulierungen, was gleichzeitig zu einer deutlich höheren Zahl von käuflich erhältlichen Präparaten geführt hat. Hierbei gab es Neuentwicklungen sowohl im Bereich der Rohstoffe, der Galenik wie auch im Bereich der kosmetischen Wirkstoffe. Ziel des vorliegenden Artikels soll es daher sein, besonders interessante neue Entwicklungen und Trends im Bereich der Dermatokosmetika aus dermatologischer Sicht darzulegen. Insbesondere soll hier im Bereich der Rohstoffe auf Neuentwicklungen von Tensiden und im Bereich der Galenik auf Nanoemulsionen eingegangen werden. Im Bereich der kosmetischen Wirkstoffe sollen die so genannten Antiagingpräparate, hier insbesondere die Vitamin-A-Derivate und Östrogen-Präparate erwähnt werden. Einen weiteren wichtigen Schwerpunkt bilden photoprotektive Substanzen wie Antioxidantien und DNA-Reparatur-Enzyme.

Abstract

In recent years there has been an increasing number of new developments in the field of cosmetics and skin care, which has led to an increasing number of new formulations and preparations in the same time. Progress has been made both in the development of raw materials and carrier systems and ingredients. The aim of this article is to describe important new developments in rawmaterials, carrier systems and ingredients from the dermatological point of view. Especially the new development of detergents and nanoemulsions as well as antiaging-preparations and here in particular the vitamin A derivates and hormones are reviewed. Moreover photoprotective substances such as antioxidants and DNA-repair-enzymes are reviewed in the present article.

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Prof. Dr. med. Martina Kerscher

Studiengang Kosmetik und Körperpflege · Fachbereich Chemie · Universität Hamburg

Martin-Luther-King-Platz 6 · 20146 Hamburg